Drink like a local: Ubud with Panji Wisrawan

Through the eyes of Panji Wisrawan, Ubud unfolds as a captivating tapestry where ancient traditions intertwine with modern vibrancy, offering a sanctuary for the soul and a playground for the senses.

Nestled amidst lush rice terraces and verdant jungles, Ubud is the cultural heart of Bali, a captivating blend of ancient traditions, artistic expressions, and serene natural beauty. This enchanting town offers a tranquil escape from the bustling coastal resorts, inviting visitors to immerse themselves in a world of yoga retreats, spiritual practices, and vibrant artistic communities. From exploring ancient temples and vibrant markets to indulging in traditional dance performances and savoring authentic Balinese cuisine, Ubud promises a journey of self-discovery and cultural immersion. To guide us through the essence of Ubud’s vibrant bar scene, we turn to Panji Wisrawan, the esteemed head bartender of Pinstripe Bar, who possesses a deep understanding of the town’s unique offerings.

Panji Wisrawan, currently the Head Mixologist at Pinstripe Bar Bali, is responsible for crafting the beverage program at the venue. He utilizes kitchen techniques and local ingredients to create drinks that complement the high-end fine dining experience, while maintaining the 1920s-inspired ambiance of the bar.

Born and raised in Denpasar, Panji’s parents are originally from Buleleng in northern Bali. His fluency in Indonesian, rather than the Balinese accent, sometimes leads people to mistake him for a non-Balinese. He regularly visits his hometown to participate in traditional ceremonies, keeping the customs alive.

Big picture

Panji describes Ubud as an exotic haven, rich in cultural heritage and ancient traditions, providing a tranquil escape from the frenetic pace of city life. Nestled in the heart of Bali, its name, meaning “medicine,” hints at its reputation as a center for holistic healing and wellness. The town’s allure lies not only in its breathtaking scenery – verdant rice terraces, dense forests, and cascading waterfalls – but also in its vibrant cultural tapestry.

Ubud’s appeal extends beyond its natural beauty and traditional arts; it has also developed a dynamic nightlife scene in recent years. The emergence of speakeasy bars, wine bars, late-night restaurants, and clubs has transformed Ubud into a vibrant hub that caters to diverse travelers. Whether one seeks cultural immersion through traditional dance performances, a lively bar scene, or a peaceful moonlight stroll, Ubud’s nightlife offers an enchanting and multifaceted experience, ensuring every night is filled with captivating possibilities.

Immerse yourself in Balinese spirituality by experiencing the Melukat ritual at the sacred Pura Tirtha Empul. This purification ceremony, held in holy springs, cleanses your body, mind, and spirit from negativity. Located north of Ubud, this Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu, the God of Water, offers a unique and tranquil experience. Even if you don’t participate in the ritual, you can still enjoy the peaceful gardens, observe others undergoing purification, or feed the fish in the beautiful koi pond. Remember to dress respectfully when entering the temple, wearing a traditional kamen or renting one at the entrance.

The food

Ubud’s food scene is a delightful mix of authentic Balinese cuisine and Indonesian home cooking, best experienced at local Warungs. These small, family-run restaurants offer delicious and affordable meals in a casual and welcoming atmosphere. Must-try dishes include Nasi Babi Guling (Balinese suckling pig) and Nasi Campur (mixed rice). Beyond traditional fare, Ubud also caters to diverse tastes with a range of international restaurants, organic cafes, and vegan eateries, ensuring a culinary adventure for every palate.

Yes, food is a big part of the local drinking culture in Bali. The tradition of “megibung,” where people eat and drink together, dates back to the 1600s and is still practiced today, especially after religious ceremonies or community meetings. Arak and Tuak, locally made alcoholic beverages, are often consumed during these gatherings.

Must-Try Balinese Dishes:

• Babi Guling with Nasi Campur Lawar Bali: This legendary suckling pig dish, a favorite of the late Anthony Bourdain, features flavorful roasted pork served with mixed rice and a spicy vegetable salad called Lawar.
• Tipat Cantok: A refreshing peanut sauce salad served with tipat (rice cakes). The peanut sauce can be mild or spicy, offering a flavorful and satisfying experience.
• Ayam Betutu: A traditional Balinese dish made from chicken or duck, marinated with a complex blend of spices known as base genep. The slow-cooking process results in tender, flavorful meat.

The drinks

Ubud’s drinking scene is as diverse as its food scene. You can find everything from traditional Balinese arak and tuak in local warungs to craft cocktails in upscale bars and live music venues. Many establishments offer stunning views of the surrounding rice paddies or jungle, creating a unique and unforgettable atmosphere. Whether you’re looking for a casual drink with friends or a sophisticated night out, Ubud has something to offer.

Bali boasts a rich tradition of fermented beverages that add a unique touch to its cultural landscape. Arak, a potent spirit distilled from coconut or palm sap, is a popular choice for celebrations and social gatherings. Tuak, another fermented drink derived from palm sap, offers a milder and sweeter alternative. Brem, a rice wine made from steamed sticky rice and yeast, showcases the island’s expertise in transforming simple ingredients into delightful concoctions. These traditional drinks not only tantalize the taste buds but also provide a glimpse into Bali’s vibrant heritage and customs.

The most popular drink in Bali is arguably Arak, a traditional spirit enjoyed across the island. However, its specific popularity might vary slightly across different neighborhoods. In more traditional communities, you’re likely to find classic arak made from palm sap, while in areas with a growing cocktail culture, you might encounter innovative arak varieties like those made from snakefruit or sweet potato. These modern interpretations appeal to a wider range of tastes and are gaining popularity in trendy bars and restaurants, especially in tourist hotspots like Ubud and Seminyak.

For a visiting bartender, two unique places in Bali stand out for their deep connection to Balinese craft and culture. First, there’s the Karusotju Distillery, nestled at the foot of Batukaru Mountain. This intimate distillery offers a firsthand look at the production of their distinctive sweet potato-based arak. Meeting Aldrian, one of the founders, provides not only insights into their meticulous craft but also a glimpse into a lesser-known, authentic side of Bali rarely experienced by visitors

Secondly, a visit to Dapur Bali Mula is highly recommended, though it requires a journey to the northeast of the island. This establishment is dedicated to preserving traditional Balinese cooking and distilling methods, even crafting their own arak using time-honored techniques. While it’s further afield, the experience promises a deep dive into the heart of Balinese culinary and beverage traditions, offering a truly unique and enriching experience.

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The big list

BARS

Pinstripe Bar

Syrco Basè Bar

Kawi

Segno

Cloak & Dagger

NIGHTCLUBS/LATE-NIGHT

The Blue Doors Ubud

La Favela

CP Lounge Ubud

Old Man’s Canggu

Boliche Ubud

RESTAURANTS

Apéritif Restaurant

Kyoka Japanese Kitchen

Sayan House

Skool

Room 4 Dessert

STREET FOOD

Warung Lawar Alam Murni, Silakarang

Warung Babi Guling Tungkub Peliatan, Ubud

Dapur Raja Balinese Restaurant, Ubud

Fushou Noodle Club, Ubud

Naughty Nuri’s Ubud

EXPERIENCES

Melukat at Tirta Empul

Cliff Jumping & Waterfall sliding at Aling-aling waterfall.

Sunrise Tracking at Mount Agung

Sunset dinner or aperitivo hour at Sayan Valley

Swing at ricefield terrace at Ceking or Tegalalang

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Tips & phrases

Tipping:  Tipping in Ubud is generally not mandatory but is appreciated, with common amounts ranging from 10-15% of the service cost or small fixed amounts depending on the service provided.

Getting around: For convenient travel around Ubud, consider ride-hailing apps like Gojek or Grab, especially by motorbike to navigate traffic. Renting a motorbike is also a popular option with rentals easily available. Remember to have an international driving license, wear a helmet, and never drink and drive.

Drinking age: The legal drinking age in Ubud, Bali, and throughout Indonesia is 21 years old. This applies to all alcoholic beverages, including beer, wine, and spirits.

Where to stay: For a diverse range of accommodation options in Ubud, consider exploring luxurious resorts with private pools and spa facilities, charming boutique hotels nestled amidst lush greenery, or budget-friendly guesthouses and homestays offering a taste of local life. Jalan Goutama is a bustling street in the heart of Ubud, offering a mix of local shops, markets, spas, and homestays. If you enjoy a vibrant atmosphere with cafes, music, and dining options, this could be a great choice. For a quieter experience, consider Jalan Bisma, which has villas with rice field views and charming restaurants and cafes.

Cheers: Angkat! (credit to Laura & Agung Prabowo) Bersulang! (formal)

Thank you: Suksma!

Hi: Om Swastiastu!

Nice to meet you: Senang Bertemu dengan Anda.

Goodbye: Da Da! (informal) Sampai jumpa (formal)