Drink like a local: Penang with Thanesh Joel

Penang, Malaysia, is a vibrant island where rich history and culture blend with a thriving food and drink scene, offering both locals and visitors a unique and unforgettable experience, as we’ll discover with our local guide, Thanesh Joel, a seasoned bartender and passionate Penangite

Situated on the northwestern coast of Malaysia, Penang is a captivating island where rich history intertwines with vibrant modernity. Known as the “Pearl of the Orient,” this UNESCO World Heritage Site boasts a colorful tapestry of cultures, stunning landscapes, and a tantalizing culinary scene. From exploring the charming streets of George Town to savoring the diverse flavors of street food, Penang offers a feast for the senses. To guide us through this captivating island, we have the pleasure of meeting Thanesh Joel, a seasoned bartender and passionate local with a deep connection to Penang’s vibrant spirit.

Thanesh is the Operation Manager at Backdoor Bodega, Penang. He originally trained as a French fine-dining chef before transitioning into bartending. Despite his serious career path, he has a curious nature and enjoys exploring the complexities of the world around him. Born and raised in Penang for 25 years, he has a deep connection to the island, although his family originally came from the mainland in search of better opportunities. For Thanesh, Penang’s deep roots intertwine with his career and lifestyle, from its exceptional hawker food to its vibrant drinking culture, creating an ideal environment for his bartending profession.

Big picture

Penang is a vibrant and multicultural state. The bar and nightlife scene in Penang has experienced a significant transformation since the pandemic. Pre-covid, the city was known for its 24/7 energy, with bustling crowds even in the early hours. However, the pandemic forced many businesses to reduce their operating hours.

Post-covid, the scene has gradually recovered, with businesses returning to their original hours and events extending past midnight. The recognition of Penang’s bars on the Asia 50 Best Bar list and the awarding of Michelin stars have further boosted the nightlife scene. From hosting occasional guest shifts to organizing multiple events per month, the city’s nightlife has become increasingly dynamic. It now attracts not only locals but also a growing number of international visitors, making Penang an international stop for those seeking a taste of its vibrant nightlife and cultural offerings.

Today, people in Penang have developed a greater appreciation for outdoor activities and enjoying the afternoon and evening atmosphere. Weekends tend to be busier with increased traffic due to people going out, but weekdays can also get crowded if there’s an event or social gathering. The city’s beautiful seaside location and aesthetic appeal encourage people to spend time outdoors. Some even drive to the beach to enjoy beers with friends, finding it a fulfilling and enjoyable experience.

Penang’s diverse population, with its multiple races and cultures, contributes to a rich and exciting food and beverage scene. The blending of cross-cultural influences has led to the creation of unique and authentic cuisines, often cherished as family secrets. The recent Michelin star awarded to a Peranakan establishment is a testament to the exceptional quality and preservation of these culinary traditions.

The food

Penang boasts a vibrant and diverse food scene, where street food reigns supreme. Among the must-try options are the iconic Char Koey Teow, the flavorful Hokkien Mee, and the ever-popular Nasi Kandar, a cornerstone of Penang’s dining culture. Food plays a significant role in the local drinking culture. After a night out, many people head to “mamak stalls,” open late into the night, to enjoy a meal and unwind before heading home. Three dishes you shouldn’t miss are Nasi Kandar, Chicken Sambal, and Petai, each offering a unique and delicious taste of Penang’s culinary delights.

Thanesh admits that he misses food the most when he’s away from Penang. Even when traveling for work and experiencing the culinary delights of other places like Jakarta, he finds himself constantly craving Nasi Kandar.

The drinks

Penang’s drinking scene is a vibrant tapestry woven from the island’s rich multicultural heritage, where traditional libations mingle with modern favorites. From cozy local bars tucked away in historic streets to trendy rooftop lounges overlooking the bustling cityscape, Penang offers a diverse range of watering holes to suit every taste. Whether you’re seeking a taste of authentic local brews or looking to savor international cocktails crafted by skilled mixologists, Penang’s bars and pubs promise a delightful experience for both locals and visitors alike.

For Malaysian Indians like Thanesh, Toddy, a coconut sap wine, holds a special place as a traditional drink often enjoyed during family gatherings.

However, the most popular drinks in Penang vary across different communities. Among the favorites are iced coffee from hawker stalls, nutmeg juice, and Ice Kacang, a delightful dessert that doubles as a refreshing drink when it melts.

Thanesh recommends that bartenders visiting the island should definitely check out the Cecil Market in the morning. It’s a great place to experience the local produce, including super fresh seafood, which could provide inspiration for unique cocktail creations.

---

The big list

BARS

Nomad (closed on Sunday and Monday)

Biso Cocktail Bar (closed on Monday)

Drafted (closed on Tuesday and Wednesday)

No Bar Here (closed on Sunday and Monday)

Backdoor Bodega (closed on Tuesday and Wednesday)

NIGHTCLUBS

Over and Above (closed on Tuesday)

Midnight Black (open everyday)

Peace Club (open everyday)

RESTAURANTS

CEKI Nyonya Restaurant

Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery

Communal Table by Gēn 根

Restaurant au Jardin (I used to work here!)

Kebaya Dining Room

Teksen Restaurant

Jawi House Cafe Gallery

CAFES

Ome by Spacebar Coffee (closed on Thursday)

Lunabar coffee (closed on Monday and Tuesday)

China House (open everyday)

MARKET & STREET FOOD

Cecil Market ( best combo as it has amazing hawker food and amazing market right beside it)

Kimberley Street Food Night Market

Presgrave street corner

洗布桥美食街

Old Trafford Burger

Asam Laksa Gurney Drive

Nasi Kandar Ali IPD Corner

Restoran Mohamed Raffee Nasi Kandar

Wah Keong Kopitiam ( Wantan Mee )

---

Tips & phrases

Getting around: In Penang, Grab is the most convenient way to get around, offering affordable fares and widespread accessibility. However, walking is also a feasible option, especially for shorter distances within the city, allowing you to enjoy the scenery at a leisurely pace.

Drinking age: In Penang, the minimum age for drinking and entering bars is 21 years old.

Where to stay: For a great stay in Penang, consider Georgetown. You’ll find a wide array of hotels and Airbnbs, from luxurious seaview options to charming heritage homes and modern apartments.

Cheers: Yumseng (drag the yum as long and as loud as you can and end it with a sharp seng) We usually do this in the bar with all of our guests.

Thank you: Terima Kasih

Hi: Hello is fine as most of us converse in English with our guests. Quick tips; add uncle/auntie (example hello uncle/auntie/boss) when you are ordering some food/drinks at hawker stalls, they will definitely be very appreciative and probably throw in some extra goodies for you haha.

Nice to meet you: Selamat berkenalan

Goodbye: Selamat Tinggal